Every country around the Mediterranean has some kind of big fisherman’s stew incorporating all the odds & ends of the day’s catch – Bouillabaisse (France), Zuppa di Pesce (Italy), Caldeirada (Portugal), Psarosoupa (Greece), etc. “Ciuppin” (meaning “to chop” or “chopped” in the Ligurian dialect), is a traditional seafood soup of Genoa, and a version of it became tremendously popular in San Francisco in the 1800’s. It’s now a classic SF staple, served with that city’s equally famous sourdough bread.
For my version, shrimps & scallops, clams & mussels join chunks of tender fish in a bright, chunky tomato broth with plenty of garlic, wine and basil. Served with fat, grilled, buttered wedges of just-baked sourdough bread by Sara Lapell of Nice Buns Bakery (GF foccacia also available).
There’s also organic baby green side salad, and fresh baked pie from the wood ovens at Dufferin Grove Park.
Len Senater is the founder and proprietor of The Depanneur, who happily cooks for his friends and neighbours every Tuesday night.