‘The Depanneur Cookbook’ is a Memorial to a Storied Toronto Food Hub

by Ian Coutts, Mar 2024, Zoomer Book Club

"For 10 years, founder and guiding light Len Senater played host to a rotating series of dinners, talks and events in a tiny converted variety store in west-end Toronto. Its style was shabby chic, with “an emphasis on the shabby,” says Senater, who hails from Montreal, but was raised in Toronto. The Depanneur, prompted by slim finances, dispensed with the tired concept of matching plates, cups and cutlery. The whole idea was to showcase “all of this remarkable culinary talent sitting in the city.”"

Welcome to the Dep – a place where interesting food things happen.

by Shannon Murphy, Feb, 2019, City Eats + Cottage Treats

“There’s nothing quite as motivating as sinking your life savings into something. That’s a great source of motivation. It’s also a lot of joy and fun and something I deeply believe in. I believe in the power of food, believe that food can generate community and connect people and doesn’t have to be fancy or luxurious – it is important to commit to something to push against the ever increasing polarization of people with money and people without. Trying to show it was possible to do things in a different way. It’s not just your job, it’s everything you believe in.”

An open mic for culinary performers & a gastronomic journey for diners

by Rea Mcnamara, Jun 2012, Yonge Street Media

So what exactly is The Depanneur? Consider it a food hub or, in Senater's words, "a social experiment." In deliberately shunning the fancy, Senater is keeping things cheap, small and human-scale in order to pursue an atypical resto with a social enterprising mandate that includes inventive communal pop-up dinners and workshops. In serving food family-style on mismatched china, he's updating the home-kitchen-as-primary-source-of-nutrition tradition for the urban dweller whose familiarity with locavore practices may have first come from an episode of Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution.