Maria Polotan probably did more to transform my appreciation of Filipino food than anyone. Prior to starting The Dep, I hadn’t really had much experience with this cuisine. But that all changed when Maria brought these amazing flavours to Mama Linda’s, her 2020 Brunch residency at The Dep, and then to Lami, her East end brunch pop-up.
Since then she has become a familiar figure the Dep kitchen, with numerous popular kamayan dinners and memorable pop-up events, as well as being a contributor to the award winning Depanneur Cookbook. Today she shares some her secrets of authentic Filipino cooking in a fun, hands-on cooking class.
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Kinilaw na Isda
Chunks of market fresh sashimi-grade fish, julienne of ginger, shallots, chilies, and daikon, quickly tossed in sukang tuba (coconut sap vinegar) and lime dressing.
While similar to ceviche, Kinilaw — the act of “cooking” by adding souring agent, be it vinegar or the myriad of sour fruits abundant in the islands to a raw ingredient, most often fish — is the oldest recorded cooking method in the Philippines. Long before the Spanish colonized the islands, the Chinese and Indians came to trade, indigenous peoples of the islands developed this way of cooking that remains today one of the best ways to prepare and eat fish and seafood.
Kalabasa są Gata
Asian squash simmered until tender in a coconut milk broth flavoured with lemongrass, ginger, garlic, chilies and cilantro. Available with or without shrimp
Growing up in a region where coconut was abundant, coconut was a regular feature in my family’s kitchen. My mother and aunt would cook everything from meats to fish to all kinds of vegetables in coconut. For a long time, kalabasa sa gata was the only way I would eat squash as a child.
Mais Con Hielo (Sweet Corn and Ice)
Layers of sweet corn, sweetened coconut cream and shaved ice.
While everyone raves about halo-halo, mais con hielo is my favourite shaved ice dessert, especially on a hot summer day. The sweet-savoury taste of corn is the perfect counterpart for the richness of coconut cream. And of course the shaved ice... the best way to beat summer heat!
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Maria Lourdes Polotan grew up in a family where food played a central part on how life was celebrated; the kitchen was where the family congregated and her mother presided. Maria shares her passion for food through Mama Linda’s, offering traditional Filipino home cooking with quality local ingredients at pop-up events, catering, and at Withrow Park Farmers’ Market in the summer. @mamalindasto | @lamibymamalindas
